I am back at Tubani So from my homestay for a few days and am enjoying electricity, internet, and salad.
On the 7th I left for a town called Banankoro – my home for the next two months or so. I live with a family in a really big compound. My host father has 4 wives and 11 children, though the 3 oldest aren’t around. His uncle & his three wives (and some of their children) also live with us, as well as two of my host father’s brothers, their wives, and their 9 children. And the grandmother. Like I said, it’s a big compound.
I like my family a lot. They’ve been hosting volunteers for a long time so they’re really good at dealing with my lack of language skills and my cultural weird-ness. Everyone eats from a big common bowl, but they give me a smaller one to share with one person – usually my 15 year old (host) sister-in-law. The food is lots and lots of carbs with some oil and a little fish, so meals are not the high point of my day, but whatevs. There is very little fresh stuff in season right now. Mango season ended a little while ago, so there are the last dregs of those, but they’re supposed to be a lot better in March. Besides that, the fresh stuff I see around is usually cucumber and a citrus orange-type-thing.
I spend almost every day in Bambara class all day long, which is really intense, but also really enjoyable (Bambara is the biggest language in Mali, btw). Right now I feel like I’m taking to it like a fish to water, so that’s a lot of fun. Every day when I can go home and say something more to my family and actually communicate with them makes me feel like I’m accomplishing something.
The weather here is pretty hot and really really humid – 90’s (maybe higher?) and then mid 80’s at night. It’s the beginning of the rainy season, so it’s storming every few days or so, but eventually it’ll be more often. The rainy season ends mid September, and then there’s a “cold” season from November-ish through early February-ish. Not really sure what the temperature will be then, but I’m defnintely excited for it to cool even a little bit. The humidity is what is getting to me the most right now. February/March through late May is the really hot dry season (also tasty fruit season!), and then it starts all over again.

If you are interested, I would love to get letters… and packages… but for realz letters would be awesome. if you’re interested, you can mail me a letter at:

Elyse Callahan, PCT
Corps de la Paix
B.P. 85
Bamako, Mali, West Africa

I don’t know what else to write about. I’ve had a few low points (usually centered around food), but I’m doing well and enjoying the majority of the experiences that I’ve been having. I haven’t gotten my camera out yet for some reason, so I don’t have any pictures to load, but I will soon. Lots of love to everyone, I’ll post again when I’m back at Tubani So (about 3 weeks from now). If you want to call, my mom has both of my phone numbers.

So how do you use this thing?

I wrote this yesterday but couldn't get online. I would have added more today, but I'm pretty tired. more later sometime-ish

Today was my first full day in Mali. We got in 4 hours late last night, so we didn't leave the airport until about 1:30 AM, which was pretty lame. We drove to the training site, Tubani so (sounds like too-ban-is-oh) and just crashed because we were all exhausted from all of the travel. We started in Philidelphia at noon on the 1st, so it's been a long time getting here. By the end I wasn't really nervous, I just wanted a bed to sleep in (ok, maybe a little nervous).

Tubani so has a cafeteria, some open buildings for classes, and groups of huts for rooms. Mine is exactly what you're picturing - mud brick round hut with a thatch roof. quaint. I do have electricity, though, and internet in the cafeteria. This morning was introductions and a lecture-style class on some general guidelines. We started our anti-malarial pills, so we'll see if I get dizzy like I did with the last ones. (Quick note from the future: yes, I do get dizzy. it's no good). This afternoon we went to the American Club to celebrate the 4th of July. It's seriously a little walled in America - the building has AC and an indoor bathroom (toilet, sink, AND hot shower), there were hamburgers, hot dogs, and ice cream, and (my favorite part), there was a swimming pool. It was strange to be there while knowing that we're in Mali and about to live in villages. We have more classes over the next few days and an interview quiz thing to find out how good everyone is at French. This Thursday we will all move to our training homestay sites. there are 80 people in my class, but each homestay village will have around 8, so there's a lot more personal attention for lessons. The next 9 weels are supposed to be extremely intense - busy with classes constantly. Should be fun.

Today at lunch I was marveling at how much I've missed being in Africa. It's hot and humid (I sweat constantly), I don't have a toilet, there's trash all over, traffic is scary, and the food is generally bland at best, but I truly enjoy living here and living iwth people here. I s'pose that's a good thing. Hope it rains today, it's supposed to be the rainy, "cool" season. ha.

Lots of love

Elyse