May 22, 2013

Full Circle

Near the beginning of my time in Zambia, I attended a training for Step 2 of MACEPA's program. During that first training, I sat to the side, wide-eyed and trying to pretend I knew what was going on. I didn't. There were a few ways I might have stepped in and helped out, except I was too shy/nervous/terrified to do so. This week, I'm at another training for Step 2 for the next round of test & treat campaigns. That first training, I couldn't have lead anything, answered any questions - truthfully, I was just as confused about the program and knew little more about malaria than the participants. I was just attending. Now, my role has more depth to it - I answer questions, help out with problems that arise, and (though not this specific training), lead sessions. The finish line is within my view now; looking back at that first training, it feels like I've come full circle in some small way.

There's a rhythm, a cadence to language here. In Mali, I was told I could speak Bambara not when I had mastered (ha) the vocab, the technicalities, but when my stories flowed in that rhythm. Similarly, when I was teaching, that same flow was necessary for real communication. My Bambara has a rhythm. It's a simple, toubab rhythm, but it's something. My English, in comparison, is erratic and rushed. I speak English like an American, fitting as many words as possible into a breath, smudging the consonants, mumbling and dropping sentence ends (a strong argument could be made that I mumble more than others...). When speaking to Zambians -- or to anyone with a different first language -- my words become more defined, stuccato. I've noticed this habit in many mzungus. Standing up to present at a training a couple of months ago, I reminded myself to speak as I would in Bambara, slow my words, turn a sentence into a conversation. My words, however, tumbled out as they always do. Not an easy habit to break. Speaking to a well-educated group, we continued with few hiccups. The idea of then training anyone who might have a more difficult time understanding me, however, made me hesitate.

What I'm getting around to, in a rather long-winded fashion, is the advantage of training locals to be the trainers. That educated group I was presenting to in February were district medical office staff being trained in the malaria elimination program as well as adult teaching methods. A few weeks later, I saw them in action. They spoke in both local languages and English, but in speaking they kept the audience engaged, followed some notes with examples, others with stories. All of their words flowed with the rhythm I lack. In a session I was leading, I invited one of the trainers to translate into Tonga for me. Short sentences turned into paragraphs, slight admonishments morphed into stories. I was humbled. Since that, the group of new trainers has been kept busy, cycling through trainings for Steps 2 & 3 of the program. With every training, they become more confident in their own knowledge of the material, take on more roles.

In training future trainers, the local workforce is empowered to take on responsibility for the malaria elimination program. It becomes a part of the expected workload, not something pushed on them by an outside force. They have a comprehensive understand the nuances of the steps, can answer a broad range of questions. Coming from within the community, they recognize issues that will develope, sections that need to be repeated, more easily than someone else. This knowledge can be exercised when they are leading trainings, of course, but also when they are back in their districts, informing others at the office or providing support to clinic and rural staff within their districts. Within the trainings themselves, participants are being educated by people that they know and relate to, they can make more sense out of what is taught, and they benefit from a stronger grasp on the material.

In Peace Corps, there's a saying that anyone can feed a man fish when he's hungry; what we're doing is teaching him how to fish.  This can be turned into a full-blown story, but as we've already noted, I lean towards simplification. This is an aspect that has made me proud to be a member of Peace Corps for almost 3 years. In the last 10 months, I've found the same drive for generating knowledge rather than just raw materials, for passing on a program that will be sustained once the program creators have withdrawn, in people I'm working with in MACEPA. In short, things are going well.

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Early last week, a couple of friends stayed at my house. One had been there months before and commented on how much more of a home my place had become. My father, visiting later in the week, made a similar comment, noting that I had amassed things to keep me living comfortably. Over the weekend, someone else mentioned that she'd be leaving a month before me and that before she leaves, I should come get the things she was leaving behind. These three moments got me thinking about one of the assumptions of Peace Corps volunteers. There's this idea that we live very sparsly, pack light, and have less interest in material things. Not true. Given the chance, any volunteer wants all of the things. A friend, for example, told me about a PCV who, after meeting with volunteers on their way out, ended up with a few bottles of soy sauce. She kept them all, not because maybe there's some recipe that will require a cup of soy sauce, but because we collect all of the things.

Considering my house last week, my blinders were lifted and I realized how much stuff I've collected over the last 10 months, often through hand-me-downs from leaving friends. I know that I don't need most of it, and there's much that I rarely use. The craziest part is that it's all so temporary. Little of it is going back to the states with me at the end of my service, something that I've known since day 1. Knowing this, I'd like to stop, to suppress the itch to collect and hoard. But if I'm honest with myself, I will stop by my friend's place and take the things she leaves behind next month (what if I need 3 bags of rice at short notice???). I console myself with the thought that these things won't go to waste, will soon be passed on to someone else, continuing the cycle.

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I want to write something about my dad's visit while it's still fresh in my mind. I did not take hundreds of photos as I meant to, focused instead on staying in the moment, appreciating the time we had (maybe I forgot  to take my camera everywhere...). If I pushed myself, I'm sure I could come up with a couple of paragraphs on how truly fantastic it is to have someone visit you during your Peace Corps service, go on about feelings, seeing the world, opening your mind. But sitting here, all that comes to mind is how wonderful it was to hug my dad. The rest will have to wait.







Couple of interesting things...
Taking steps to actually eliminating malaria in Zambia
Yet another reason I'm proud to be part of Peace Corps

Peace & Love
Elyse

May 15, 2013

Distraction

I grabbed my backpack out of the shared taxi and moved to get on the bus. The taxi driver blocked my way, insisting that it wasn't worth it, that we were really leaving this time. "Unless you can tell me we are leaving right now," I replied, "I'm getting on the bus."

"Yes, we're going to leave right now"

"RIGHT now??"

The hesitation ran across his face, "we're leaving very, very soon"

"Sorry, but I must leave now," I said, pushing past him and onto the bus that was already pulling away.

Settling in my seat, I found a movie playing directly above me. A South African slapstick comedy, it wasn't my genre but the screen still drew me in. Head craned, neck bent at an awkward angle, I missed the little girl in front of me as she got out of her seat and stood in the aisle. Suddenly, my feet felt like they were getting sprayed by something -- I looked down to find the child mid-stream. I pulled my legs up to the seat, thankful that I hadn't set my bag on the ground (a rule since sitting next to a man with a plastic bag leaking fish juice. That he so kindly pointed out 1/2 hour later). Trying to mask my disgust and keep my cool with my legs in the air, I texted a friend. "TIA," I said to her. The boys across from me giggled at my position. Karma, I thought to myself. Maybe next time I'll wait with the first driver I agree to.

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I've been checking my phone manically the last couple of days. Time - email - viber - facebook - time. Just in case something changes, something goes wrong, and someone decides to tell me. Because OHMYGOD my dad is coming to visit this week. Everyone knows. I'm not sure that they all care, but I've been telling them anyways. I've tried to do some work, opened up excel files and jotted down clinics in my little notebook, only to find myself sitting back down and looking at it all an hour later, wondering what I was trying to do and why I got up in the first place. But oh look there's my smartphone, time-email-viber-facebook-time. Nothing. And it still isn't Thursday.

I'm looking forward to a fresh set of eyes, to remember what this all looks like from a new perspective. My camera will be glued to my side for his entire stay so that I remember to take photos of things I no longer consider unusual, things I no longer notice. I am looking forward to showing him what my life is like, to showing off my home (first time my dad will be staying at a place that's "mine" and he had to fly across the world to see it). Mostly I'm looking forward to hugging him. Walking home this evening, I told myself to blog, felt like writing. Instead I'm scrolling through my tabs -- it's 9:15, no new emails, no new viber messages, no new facebook messages. And it still isn't Thursday. Clearly, any productivity will have to be postponed.

Peace & Love
Elyse

May 3, 2013

On Mail and Making Friends



... Except me. I said that. I encouraged package sending while I was in Mali because, let's be honest, everyone loves to get a package. And it's that much better when you feel lonely and you're hating on your hut and you just want some gummy bears. But when getting ready to leave for Zambia, I told everyone not to bother, backed myself up with very rational excuses. My P.O. box was rarely given out, and I've gone the last 8 months content with my decision. There are grocery stores here, after all.

Until today. Sometime in March, my mom told me she'd put a small Easter package in the mail. I was perturbed. I whined about how long it would take, how difficult it would be to pick it up, how expensive it must have been.... What?! I plead temporary insanity. Today, I received said package. Nothing out of the ordinary... good candy, a small notebook, a nice smelling candle, and an Easter card that said "I love you." Reading that, munching on JellyBellys, I remembered that getting packages during my service was never really about what was inside (except for a few desperate cases), it was about reading a silly hallmark card and feeling the message, about knowing that someone went to the trouble of picking out those specific things and putting them together just. for. you. Those packages were reminders that I had people who believed in what I was doing when I didn't, reminders that I am loved. My mom, of course, knew that all along.

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It's been a very, very long while. I have a backed up list of things to write about and no reason for not writing about them. Hopefully I'll soon flood this thing with those posts. For now I'll make due with some photos. Since the last time I was on here, I hopped over the border to stand on top of the world for a few days...
Dune 7. The streak of blue on the horizon (left side) is the ocean...


On top of Big Daddy in Sossousvlei park

and made some new friends.

























Later in the month, World Malaria Day happened
There were also speeches but, honestly...
the dancers were my & my camera's favorite.
Adorableness repping Mama Safenite bednets

And I saw a rainbow late at night

I've also been saying too many goodbyes. At the beginning of my time here, a friend spoke of what a Peace Corps friend of his called the beautiful sadness, or some such. When you lead a transient lifestyle, whether abroad or in your home country, you meet travelers of every kind. Tourists, backpackers, expats with intriguing scars and even more interesting stories. It's fun to find these people, exchange "this one time in ___" over a few beers. Moving through the stream of people, you are bound to find a few that you connect with on a different, indescribable level. You may have similar life goals, personal philosophies and insights, or maybe you just laugh constantly when you're together (those are my favorite). You find a kindred spark in someone else, and it's wonderful, beautiful. But, as at least one of you can't seem to just settle down, the time you have is always too brief as you each continue on where you're headed. Therein lies the sadness.

Sifting through memories of friends that I've made and let go in the last 3 years, people I've bonded with over weeks, months, years,  I'm comforted by the idea that you never really say goodbye. You might not see each other for years, but - wandering as we do - your paths are bound to cross again. Maybe that's the beautiful part.


A few interesting things...
Even on a Peace Corps stipend, I'm still in the top 15% richest people in the world
UNICEF's new ad campaigns...
Great post by a journalist I met, Imani Cheers, on how we use cell phones in the fight against malaria in Zambia
Most importantly, making these made my week. It may not be hard-core Peace Corps, but I love having a kitchen.

Peace & Love
Elyse